The designers explained their varying associations with the shape: the circular motion of a pottery wheel; the curve of a full moon, tree rings, and halos; and the perfection of a circular line, with no beginning and no end. “It’s everything and it’s nothing,” Li said on a Zoom from Shanghai. The concept was punctuated by three closing looks that resembled giant, circular tents, some of the most editorial pieces they’ve made.
Their design language evolved with a handful of pieces with no cut-outs at all: Fuzzy sweaters were knitted in starburst patterns radiating out from the chest—a subtler nod to the circle motif—while leather jackets were framed by rounded, oversized collars. The cut-outs will be polarizing, but taken apart, even the experimental items were cut in quite simple proportions: It’s a blazer, a short, or a vest with a little something extra—and endless layering possibilities.